Northern Lights Adventure: Southern Iceland.
- Joy Bartholomew
- Nov 24
- 5 min read
Iceland has exploded in popularity, but don’t let the Instagram crowds scare you away—Southern Iceland remains one of the most rewarding, manageable, and safe destinations for travelers. The roads are excellent, driving is easy, the distances between sights are short, English is universal, and the pace can be as relaxed or active as you wish. Here’s your stress-free guide to the best of the south, including Reykjavík and the eternal quest for the Northern Lights.
Reykjavík: The World’s Coolest Small Capital
Most international flights land at the small Keflavík airport (45 minutes from the city), so you’ll likely start and end here. Rental cars and camper vans are easy to arrange, and driving on a US licesnse is perfectly fine. Or a shuttle into the city gets you started on vacation quickly.
Reykjavík is compact, walkable (or easy with taxis/Uber), and wonderfully low-key.
Must-dos at an easy pace:
Hallgrímskirkja church – take the elevator to the top for panoramic views without climbing stairs.
Harpa Concert Hall – stunning architecture and a lovely café with floor-to-ceiling harbor views.
A leisurely walk along the Sun Voyager sculpture and the waterfront path.
Laugavegur street for wool shops (perfect lopapeysa sweaters) and excellent cafés. Try Sandholt Bakery, Loki (with traditional Icelandic food), the Phallic Cafe (with it's interestingly shaped waffles!), or Hofnin at the waterfront.
Pro tip: Stay in the 101 district (Hotel Borg, Alda Hotel, or Sandhotel are comfortable and central with elevators). Skip hostels and Airbnbs up three flights of stairs!
The Classic Golden Circle (Easy Drive or Private Tour)
Distances are short (the whole loop is only about 300 km / 190 miles), and every stop has good facilities.
Þingvellir National Park – walk the flat, paved path between the tectonic plates (no strenuous hiking needed).
Geysir hot springs – Strokkur erupts every 6–10 minutes; viewing area is flat and close to parking.
Gullfoss waterfall – two viewing platforms; the upper one is just a few steps from the café. The lower platform is a bit more of a walk, but you can get close to both levels of the falls.
Lunch tip: A definite MUST is a stop for lunch at Fridheimar. Not far from the Golden Circle and Secret Lagoon, it's a perfect place for a light lunch housed a tomato farm greenhouse. Tomato soup and homemade bread - you can't ask for better.
The South Coast: Waterfalls, Black Sand, and Glaciers (Without Exhaustion)
The Ring Road east from Reykjavík is paved the entire way to Vík and beyond. You can comfortably do the highlights in 2–3 days with short walks.
Highlights that are genuinely accessible:
Seljalandsfoss – you can skip walking behind the waterfall if it’s icy; the view from the front is spectacular and only 5 minutes from the car park.
Skógafoss – a gentle path leads to the base; there’s a perfectly good viewpoint without climbing the 527 steps!
Reynisfjara black sand beach – the parking lot is right at the beach. Admire the basalt columns and roaring Atlantic from ground level (stay well back from sneaker waves).
Vík village – cute church on the hill, wool shop, and the best crepes in the roadside stand leading into town.
Stay overnight in the Hella/Hvolsvöllur or Vík area—Hotel Rangá and Hotel Kría are luxurious yet reasonably priced with excellent restaurants and Northern-Lights wake-up calls.
Hot Springs & Geothermal Baths (The Real Reason We Come to Iceland)
Forget long hikes to remote pools. These are pure comfort:
Sky Lagoon (near Reykjavík) – brand-new, oceanfront, with a 7-step ritual. Elevator access and warm, shallow pools.
Secret Lagoon (near Flúðir) – the original “old-school” pool, less crowded than the Blue Lagoon, easy entry.
Fontana Laugarvatn – sauna and steam rooms right on Lake Laugarvatn; very gentle.
Blue Lagoon – yes, it’s touristy, but the silica masks and in-water bar are fun, and they have excellent accessibility (wheelchairs, hoists, and private changing rooms).
Book the earliest or latest slots to avoid crowds.
Icelandic Horses: The Friendliest Ride on Earth
Icelandic horses are small (more like large ponies), exceptionally smooth-gaited, and perfect for riders who haven’t been on a horse in decades. The tölt is a running walk that feels like sitting in an armchair.
Many stables near Reykjavík and in the south offer 1–2 hour rides on soft volcanic trails with almost no trotting or posting. You’ll usually be matched with a calm, older horse that knows the job inside out. No experience necessary—just the ability to mount from a raised platform (most places have one).
Recommended stables with excellent reviews:
Laxnes Horse Farm (15 min from Reykjavík)
Ishestar Horse Riding Center (also 15 minutest from Reykjavik)
Eldhestar in Hveragerði
Freya, the Icelandic Horse at Ishestar Horse Riding Center
Chasing the Northern Lights (Without Freezing or Staying Up All Night)
September–March is prime season. And you don’t need to stand outside in -10°C for hours.
Best strategies:
Stay at hotels with Northern Lights wake-up service (Hotel Rangá, ION Adventure Hotel, Hotel Husafell, Landfall, The Greenhouse).
Book a small-bus tour that picks you up at your hotel and drives until the sky is clear—guides check the forecast obsessively.
Use the app “Aurora Alerts” and the website vedur.is for cloud cover. If it’s clear above your hotel, just step outside in your pajamas with a cup of tea.
Practical Tips
Pack layers: merino base, fleece mid-layer, windproof shell, thin gloves you can use your phone with, and a warm hat.
Bring refillable water bottles—Icelandic tap water is the best on earth.
Groceries and restaurants are expensive; lunch at roadside cafés or gas stations (hot dogs, soup in bread bowls) is perfectly fine and half the price of dinner.
Use credit cards for the best conversion rate.
Tipping is not necessary, as their wages include the gratuities.
Travel insurance with good medical coverage is non-negotiable (rescues from remote areas can be costly).
Sample Easy 7-Day Itinerary
Day 1 – Arrive, and hit the ground running since most flights from the US land early morning. A walking tour of Reykjavík, Hallgrimskirkja, and maybe Sky Lagoon in the evening.
Day 2 – Golden Circle self-driving, private or small-group tour
Day 3 – South coast to Vík, two waterfalls + Reynisfjara (stay in Vík area)
Day 4 – Morning in Vík, leisurely drive back with possible horse ride, overnight near Selfoss Day 5 – Relaxing geothermal day (Fontana or Secret Lagoon), Fridheimar lunch.
Day 6 – Reykjavík free day: museums, shopping, harbor dinner
Day 7 – Blue Lagoon on the way to the airport (book the latest slot that still gives you 3–4 hours before your flight)
Southern Iceland is that rare destination that feels wild and untouched yet is genuinely comfortable and safe for mature travelers. Come for the waterfalls and hot springs, stay for the horses and the lights—and leave wondering why you didn’t book two weeks instead of one.
Safe travels, and may the aurora dance for you! 🌌
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